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How to Take Care of Gerbils

Oct 26
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

Gerbils, also known as “Meriones unguiculatus” are wildlife animals. Their usual life span is 2- 3 years, and may grow up to 4 inches long. They are small rodents that is furry, with colors that are usually black, off- white, yellow or gray.

Gerbils are social animals. Just like rabbits, they will not survive if they live alone. They are used to be living in colonies in wildlife. You may put them in a cage together with other gerbils. But it is much preferred if this other gerbil is put on the cage at the same time as his since these small rodents are quite territorial. If they meet a new gerbil, it may cause some trouble among them. Though they are quite territorial, they are still very sociable and tame. They only bite when they feel threatened. And let me remind you to never hold them in their tails. It hurts them and they will really bite you.

Wire cages may be the most common cage to put your pets. But for gerbils, using a glass aquarium to place them there is much preferred. Just put a mesh lid so that they cannot escape, yet still gives proper ventilation. You may put deep beddings as thick as 2-3 inches on the aquarium allowing them to burrow. If you use a cage, there is a tendency that the burrow will be destroyed. Gerbils have this chewing habit and they may tend to chew on the wires, leaving their noses injured.

For a couple of gerbils, you may cage them in a minimum size of 12″ in height, a length of 12″ and width of 24″. These gerbils are entertaining and quite active that is why a larger cage is better so that they can move freely.

Gerbils also need nest box in their homes. A nest box allows them to feel secured. They sleep here and this is where they hide. And when you put a nest box, avoid plastics but instead choose a wooden or clay pot nest box. Because of their chewing tendencies, plastics may not seem last long, but the wooden or clay pots will.

For their foods and drinks, hang a metal container on their cages so that they can just drink whenever they want. And for the food, give them food supplements that are of good quality.

To satisfy their active and social life, putting up toys on their cage allow them to move and play. You may put a piece of wood, sturdy rocks or any kind of platforms that are durable so that when they chew it, it will not be destroyed easily.

Kim, 20, inspiring, aspiring

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The 5 Hamster Breeds

Oct 05
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

One thing you might not realize is that there are actually five distinct hamster breeds. It might seem that taking care of one species is probably the same as taking care of another but some of the hamsters have very specific requirements and needs.

Campbell’s Dwarf Hamsters (Phodopus cambellii) are one of the more popular hamster breeds that you might come across. These hamsters are so similar to the Winter Whites or young Syrian hamsters (Phodopus sungorus) that even some pet store associates have trouble telling them apart. Campbell’s have a head that is a bit more triangular and they have a smaller nose than the Syrian. The Syrians also have coats that change colors with the seasons. In the summer their coats are gray and in the winter they turn white.

Campbell’s tend to grow to about 9-11 centimeters while the Winter Whites grow to 8½ -10 centimeters. These little hamsters are all very social so it is acceptable to have them in cages with others. However, it is best to raise them from a young age together and to not bring adults into the mix.

The Roborovski Dwarf Hamsters (Phodopus roborovskii) are the tiniest and the fastest of all the dwarf hamsters. They only grow to about 5 ½ to 7 ½ centimeters. Because of their very small size, they can sometimes escape from wire cages, much like the Chinese Dwarf Hamsters that are very thin.

The Roborovski Hamsters have gray backs and white undersides. They love to groom themselves and spend every waking minute being very active. These little guys are usually too busy for cuddling and handling so they are probably not best for children. They are more fun to watch as they tunnel, burrow, hoard, and groom as fast as they can.

The Chinese Dwarf Hamsters (Cricetulus griseus) are from deserts in China and Northern Mongolia. These are the only dwarf hamsters that have a tail so they sometimes get confused with actual mice or rats. In the males, they tend to have very large scrotums making them pretty easy to identify. The Chinese hamsters are not as common as the other hamster breeds. Usually experienced handlers only own them.

Lastly there are the Syrian Hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus), which are the largest and most common of the hamster breeds growing up to 7 inches long. Due to this, they prefer the larger running wheels that are 35 cm in diameter as opposed to the smaller 23 cm style. The Syrians come in a very wide variety of color variations making them very popular in pet stores where they can be sold with designer labels such as honey bears and panda bears. The most important thing to know about the Syrians is that they must always be housed alone in their cages.

No matter which type of hamster you decide to purchase, keep in mind that the ASPCA (the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) suggests children under 10 should not have any of the hamster types as pets. Also the Humane Society of the United States says that there is no size cage that is considered too large for a hamster. All of the hamster breeds are energetic and inquisitive so they need as much room to roam as possible.

For more information on hamster breeds, check out DwarfHamsterSite.com. Liz Andrews has been a hamster enthusiast for nearly 20 years. Her newest book, Dwarf Hamsters In a Nutshell teaches hamster owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their pet.

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Toys for Hamsters

Sep 18
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

Buying toys for hamsters is an absolute necessity for anyone who wants to make sure their fluffy friends are happy and active in their “cribs.” Hamsters naturally like to travel around their surroundings and find new and exciting things to do on a daily basis.

You should make sure that your hamster’s cage setup is changed or reorganized every few days so that your pet doesn’t become bored. The last thing you want is an overweight hamster and buying hamster toys can keep them energetic and fit.

So what are some of the options for hamster toys that you can purchase? The first thing that comes to mind is the mandatory running wheel. The running wheel is synonymous with hamsters and you will find your pocket pet spinning gleefully many hours of the day (actually night). Some hamsters have been known to go up to 8 miles on their wheels in a single day!

It is best to have a wheel for each animal in your cage so that everyone has his or her own space. Otherwise, you could have some aggression issues as hamsters sometimes fight over territory. Keep in mind that the dwarf hamster has smaller feet and can be injured in a running wheel that is made for larger species.

Other toys for hamsters that you can place in their cages are plastic balls and tubes that they love to run through and investigate. Plastic toys come in almost every color and shape you can imagine so it is easy to change the cage surroundings just by rotating a few every couple of days. Be careful with your plastic toys, as hamsters do love to chew.

Many people opt for chew toys made from friendlier materials so hamsters can chew to their content. Chew toys can be wooden playpens, tunnels, bridges, or they can come in funny shapes like hamburgers, guitars or cheese.

Some toys for playing outside of their cages include the hamster ball and track. Hamster balls are perfect for the pet that is constantly on the go. They are clear plastic balls with air holes so you can put your hamster inside for playtime. Then you put the ball on the floor where he can roll around the room. You definitely need to keep a close eye on him when he is in the hamster ball. Make sure stairs and exits are blocked off and there is a clear space for him to roll.

A hamster track can be used with the ball to keep your pet from going any place he shouldn’t go. Just like a train track, you can have fun designing and laying out the path for your hamster to follow.

For even more cruising, consider the hamster toy car, which works much like the hamster ball but is designed with a car style around the “driver.” Your hamster will love going on Sunday drives and you will enjoy watching all of the activity.

Even if you don’t have a lot to spend on hamster toys, there are many you can make yourself. You can use paper towel and toilet paper rolls to make mazes and tunnels for your hamster to discover. Pieces of toilet paper are also fun for hamsters, as they like to rip it apart and make nests. Gather clean, unpainted pieces of wood to set up little ramps for your hamster to run up and down. Be creative and you will probably discover you have some toys for hamsters already in your house.

For more information on toys for hamsters, check out DwarfHamsterSite.com. Liz Andrews has been a hamster enthusiast for nearly 20 years. Her newest book, ‘Dwarf Hamsters In a Nutshell’, teaches hamster owners absolutely everything they need to know about caring for their pet.

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Important Facts About Chinese Dwarf Hampsters

Aug 25
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

Having originated in the deserts of Northern China and Mongolia, the Chinese dwarf hamsters actually belong to the category of rat like hamsters. As a pet they are not as popular as their counterparts, the Russian dwarf hamsters.

Chinese dwarf hamsters have features different from their cousins as they not only have a thin and long body but, also have a longer tail, which can go up to 3cm in length. The length of their body varies from 10 to 12cm. An interesting fact associated with the Chinese hamsters is that the females are much larger and more aggressive than the males. The color of the Chinese hamsters are mostly greyish brown. There is a dark black strip that runs down the spine of the Chinese hamsters along with a white underside and spot on the head.

While typical dwarf hamsters can live together in pairs, the Chinese hamsters cannot. There is a greater possibility for two female Chinese hamsters to get along well with each other than a male and a female. Female are known to have the upper hand in this community of Chinese hamsters, the consequence of which is that it sometime leaves the male hamster seriously injured or dead. If you want to house two Chinese Dwarf hamsters you will need a lot of space within the cage. A cage having more than one level and several hiding places is preferable if you intend to house Chinese hamsters in pair. This will allow the inferior to hide from their superior counterparts. You need to keep them in large plastic or aquarium tanks as a wire cage will give them ample opportunity to try their hand at escaping through the cage bars. There is also a possibility that they might end up getting stuck in the cage bars and that can be distressing experience for both the owner and the hamster.

Their daily menu should consist of a balanced diet and plenty of water. Their diet includes such things as seeds, pellets, fresh fruits and vegetables. It is encouraged to sometime pamper them with crickets and mealworms.

It is not easy to tame Chinese dwarf hamsters. They mostly have an aggressive nature, can jump from any great heights, can run at a very high-speed are skilled in the art of climbing and can even escape from their cage if not sealed properly. These characteristics traits come as a great danger if you plan to house and tame Chinese hamsters.

Mary Wilbur is a Dwarf Hamster expert. For more great information on chinese dwarf hamster, visit http://www.dwarfhamsterscare.com

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Avoiding Bearded Dragon Diseases

Aug 14
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

Preventing bearded dragon disease and illness should be pretty easy if you are maintaining proper cleaning schedules and providing the proper diet and nutrition. This will greatly reduce the chances of your dragon getting sick, but won’t completely eliminate the threat. Your lizard can still suffer an injury, burn, or even become obese if you don’t keep a close eye on them.

A common cause of injury comes from the set-up of the enclosure itself. A lizard can be seriously harmed by an unstable accessory that may fall on them. When arranging your “furniture” within the enclosure, be sure that everything is nice and stable. Beardies tend to jump on and off of things, which can easily knock over unstable items. After I am finished arranging everything, I will give them a “jiggle” to see how secure they are.

Another frequent health risk are burns. Many owners do not realize that heat rocks and pads are dangerous. They see them in the reptile section when purchasing their first dragon, and assume they are safe. The truth is, bearded dragons are cold-blooded and thus cannot feel how hot they are getting until they are already burned. Another source of burns are lights that are arranged too close to the pet. If your lizard has a way to get too close to your light, it will. Make sure all lights are at a safe distance and cannot be reached via climbing. There are safety covers available to purchase if need be.

Bacterial growth is also a big problem with these reptiles. Coccidia is a bacteria that usually helps a dragon with breaking down their meals and help with digestion. However, if your pet isn’t performing regular bowel movements each day, the amount of coccidia can grow to dangerous levels and even cause death. Make sure you have proper temperatures, the right size food items, adequate hydration, and proper feeding times to avoid this issue.

There are many more bearded dragon diseases out there waiting to affect our beloved lizards. Remember to observe your pet daily and take note of how they act. Doing this will make it easy to notice when something isn’t quite right, and enable you to take quick action to resolve any issues. Also keep up on your stool, and physical check-ups. A fecal examine twice a year, and a physical once a year will also help to catch any illnesses in their infant stages. These tips along with regular and thorough cage cleaning will keep your pet alive and thriving for years to come.

For essential information on other aspects involved with Caring for Bearded Dragon visit Joselyn’s website. You will also find more in-depth information on bearded Bearded Dragon Disease here as well.

All the Best,
Joselyn Rhodes

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Hamster Behavior

Jul 21
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

Watching your hamster frolic around his cage can provide you with hours of enjoyment, but what exactly is he up to? Is he just playing, or do his actions have some other meaning associated with them. Hamsters are complicated little creatures and understanding a little more about why they do the things they do can help you keep your hamster healthy and stress-free. It’s a well-known fact that reducing stress for a hamster is the best thing you can do to help your hamster live a long and healthy life.

If you see your hamster creeping along the floor of his cage, your hamster is nervous about something, usually something outside of his cage. Do you have a cat nearby, or is there a lot of commotion that could be startling your hamster? Keep an eye out for things that could be causing your hamster stress.
If things get worse and your hamster gets frightened he may put his ears forward and puff his cheeks up. This is a classic sign of fright, and may be quickly followed by an emptying of his cheek pouches if he was carrying any food in them. At this point he’s not happy about the situation at all and is getting ready to run.

If you ever attempt to handle your hamster and you notice that his ears are back then you’d better remove your hand quickly as he’s feeling very aggressive and is likely to bite. Another warning sign if you ever go to handle your hamster is if you see him lying on his back with his teeth bare – you may think this a sign of submission but it’s actually another sign that your hamster is frightened and he will bite you in this state if you attempt to pick him up.

Some of the more pleasant signs to look for in your hamster are burrowing and grooming. If you spot your hamster burrowing (which is very likely) it just means that he’s looking for stray bits of food lying amongst his bedding material that he may have missed before. They’ll spend a great deal of time doing this so it’s an easy one to spot. If you catch your hamster grooming or stretching then you are looking at a particularly content and happy hamster!

If you have particularly good hearing you may occasionally catch your hamster making squeaking noises. Consider yourself lucky, as the average hamster squeak lasts only a fraction of a second, and the vast majority of hamster vocalization takes place in a frequency range that is completely undetectable by humans.

A more noticeable noise is teeth chattering – this is a sign that your hamster is unsettled, and is seen most often when a hamster is introduced to a cage that already has a hamster in it. Watch for the warning signs of potential combat between the two hamsters.

Hamsters use various scent glands on their bodies to mark their territory by rubbing the glands up against the sides of the cage. If there’s a spot in the cage they wish to mark but can’t get to with their glands they’ll scratch their scent glands with their rear feet and then walk around the area they wish to claim as theirs. When males and females in the same cage are ready to mate they’ll both reduce their markings, giving each other the signal that it’s okay for the other to approach.

You may occasionally catch your hamster chewing at the bars of his cage. Although he may look like he’s trying to chew his way to freedom he’s actually keeping his every-growing teeth at a reasonable length. If he didn’t continue to keep his teeth ground down they’d cause serious dental problems and illness. Just make sure the bars on the cage aren’t rusty!

Visit the Hamster-Zone website for even more detailed information on hamster care, hamster diet, hamster cages, and much, much more. Learn important tips on how to keep your hamster healthy and happy, including proper diet, care, and cage enrichment. Remember, a happy hamster is a healthy hamster!

Also get your FREE handy hamster illness chart when you sign up for the Hamster-Zone newsletter.

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Bearded Dragon Diet – The Basics

Jun 13
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

The basics of a bearded dragon diet stem from where the lizard developed. The dragon is originally from the deserts of Australia where there is not much food to speak of. Because of this, the species has evolved to really enjoy a combination of vegetables and meat. This means that your pet loves leafy greens and really enjoys the occasional insect.

Many people understand that a bearded dragon diet needs to include greens and vegetables but they are not sure of exactly which vegetables to include. It is incredibly important to include a variety of leafy greens and yellow vegetables to make sure that your bearded dragon does not develop a beta-carotene deficiency. The best way to avoid this is to feed your pet a good supply of carrots and yellow vegetables like squash, mustard greens and even dandelions. However, you do not want to get stuck in the idea that your dragon only enjoys vegetables. They also love to eat fruit to satisfy their sweet tooth. Some of the best fruits to include in a bearded dragon diet are apples, peaches, melons, grapes and even strawberries and raspberries. It is important that the bearded dragon diet involves insects quite regularly.

A lot of people think that the meal worm is the perfect feeder insect for their pet. However, the meal worm has a hard exoskeleton which makes it quite difficult for the dragon to digest and may even cause a fatal impaction – meaning the food will get stock and block the digestive tract. A better choice would be crickets, locusts, silkworms, butterworms or phoenix worms.

Over the last few years, roaches have also become a rather popular choice. The Dubia Cockroach also known as the Orange-spotted Cockroach is a great choice because it is slow moving and doesn’t fly. When you’re bearded dragon is younger, they will require more insects than an adult.

However, it is critical that you never feed your pet an insect that is too large. Never give them any food that is larger than the width of their mouth or you are in danger of causing health issues. From time to time, your dragon might enjoy a small young mouse also known as a ‘pinkie’. These can be purchased at pet stores all over the place. You don’t need to prepare your pinkie at all. Simply let it loose inside your pet’s cage and your dragon will eventually get to it. They might even enjoy having a very small lizard added into their diet as well. Only feed this type of live food to an adult bearded dragon because a younger lizard might be injured.

There are a number of multi-vitamins that you can add into your lizard’s diet as well. Always read the label and make sure to follow the directions exactly when administering vitamins. Remember that the most important vitamins will be acquired through sunlight.

On top of this bearded dragon diet, you need to be sure that fresh water is always available to your pet. It is best served in a very shallow dish that will not be tipped over.

Follow these tips and you and your bearded dragon will be together for a long time.

Cody Foster has raised Bearded Dragons for more than 5 years and currently authors a website called The Bearded Dragon Care where he provides great tips, up to date articles and reviews. Grab your FREE report “Bearded Dragon Care” by visiting http://www.TheBeardedDragonCare.com

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Feeding Your Reptile

May 25
Posted by GetPetSavvy in Small Animal

A healthy diet for any reptile is imperative for their survival and a long life. Not only does the right food selection important but lighting and warmth are key as well because they are both necessary for absorption of nutrients and minerals. Lighting is important for bone formation and the warmth or heat aids in skin shedding and a healthy digestion for the reptiles.

Unlike a pet that is warm blooded, reptiles like snakes, lizards and turtles usually require their food to be alive. When feeding your reptile, you must know which type of reptile you have as well as what the diet restrictions are. There are several types of reptiles that indicate what their diet should consist of. These types include insectivores, herbivores, omnivores and carnivores. This will give you an idea of what to feed your reptile as well as what not to feed them. Snakes for example are a certain kind of reptile that is a carnivore, meaning that it will most likely benefit from eating a warm blooded diet. Mice and rats can be a meal that satisfies a snake and can be done on a weekly basis.

Most likely, any reptile that you are feeding will benefit from eating gray crickets or even meal worms. Since most crickets and worms can be rich with calcium, they are both great to give to reptiles. Check to see if your reptile is restricted from consuming animal or insect proteins as it could potentially lead to internal malfunctions. For example, green iguanas, which are more strictly vegetarian should not eat insect proteins as it could cause kidney disease and renal failure. It is a good idea to find out if your reptile can eat animal or insect proteins.

Though there are some restrictions to reptilian diets, most reptiles can eat similar vegetables and fruits that are eaten by people. Proportions however should not be excessive and should really be carefully monitored during the eating period. Certain calcium rich vegetables should be given to your reptilian pet at a minimum of twice daily. These vegetables full of calcium include, turnip greens, dandelion greens, and kale and collard greens. Other vegetables that are rich in minerals consist of peas, zucchini, squash and green beans. If you wish to offer your reptile some fruits, bananas, berries and apples should make up part of the diet.

For those that have diet restrictions for their reptile pets, there are some alternatives to live insects that could still keep them healthy. Sometimes owners of reptiles can benefit from feeding their pets canned reptile food much like people would feed cats or dogs. Often canned alternatives can be silkworms and crickets. It is an interesting and safer alternative to live worms and crickets. Sometimes there are dry roasted crickets to offer reptiles that are filled with calcium. Reptile feeding is as simple as feeding any other kind of pet. They require a bit of attention and detail in their diet as well as lighting and heat to keep them healthy.

Reptile feeding and diet is important to health and can be beneficial depending on reptile type. Crickets, worms, vegetables and fruits can become staples of any reptile diet, but some restrictions can apply.

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