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Maintenance – Freshwater Aquariums

Keeping a freshwater aquarium for home or office, can reduce tension and stress. It somehow provides a soothing affect to the individuals in the room. However, before you run out and buy your freshwater aquarium, you need to know what the proper maintenance is of your aquarium. Proper freshwater aquarium maintenance will give you and your fish a happy environment. In addition, allow your fish to be healthy and live longer.

There are four things you will need to know before you buy your freshwater aquarium:

1. You will need to know how to setup your tank properly. Improper can lead to devastation of your fish.

2. Maintaining proper water quality conditions in your tank is necessary. You will need to know how to keep the proper quality of water. It much more than changing the water in the aquarium periodically.

3. Your fish may fall ill once in awhile, you will need to be able to recognize when they are ill and how to treat them.

4. You will need to keep your Freshwater fish interested in the environment around them. You do not want bored fish do you?

Now if you understand these four steps in maintaining a freshwater aquarium, you will enjoy hours and days of enjoyment of your fish. In addition, they will be happy fish, too.

If you are looking at saltwater aquariums, the same principles apply but the techniques may be different. For example, proper maintenance of water quality, since one consists of saltwater, will be different.

To learn proper aquarium maintenance go to this site to learn more http://www.squidoo.com/homefreshwateraquariums

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Choosing a Freshwater Aquarium Filter

Whatever kind of fish tank or fish you have, a freshwater aquarium filter is a must have. Fish, just like any other living thing, produce waste in the form of excrement and gases, and because a tank is such a limited environment, this waste accumulates. It will eventually kill off your fish if it’s not removed. A fish tank filter is used to gather up this waste as it is produced. The water in your aquarium will always circulate through the filter and leave behind any waste that’s in it.

The entire filtration process has 3 steps. There is mechanical filtration which will clean up floating debris. There is also biological filtration which ensures that there is biological balance in the tank by releasing good bacteria that convert ammonia waste into nitrites and then nitrates. Chemical filtration will remove dissolved waste from the water.

A freshwater aquarium filter will depend on the kind of tank that you have, and the kind of fish too. Some fish produce more waste than others and may need a more specialized freshwater aquarium filter. Choosing should not be such a problem if you know the different kinds of freshwater aquarium filters available.

1. Corner Filters: They sit in the corner and usually come stuck on the glass wall of the tank. They will be able to do all the three processes mentioned above. They however need frequent maintenance, although all you need to do is change the carbon filter.

2. Under-gravel Filters They are an excellent for those who are starting out in aquarium keeping. They use a combination of a filter and gravel mechanism to keep your aquarium clean. They are not so popular though because the gravel needs frequent vacuuming. This means that as you buy supplies, a gravel vacuum is a must. The gravel also captures air bubbles that can contain poisonous waste gases.

3. Sponge filters These are an excellent choice for a freshwater aquarium filter because of their expert biological filtration. Water will flow through them by a tube and then into a sponge that releases friendly bacteria. They however lack mechanical and chemical filtration, and if you choose them, you’ll have to install along with the other 2 different filters. It’s an excellent way to go for bare-bottomed tanks and those that hold young fish -because they require frequent water changes, young fish tend to thrive.

4. Power Filter This is by far the commonest freshwater aquarium filter. Its maintenance is easy, and it’s preferred because it does all three filtration processes. There is one problem though, and it’s in the way they are designed; the inlet to the filter is right next to the outlet for clean water, so that filtered water immediately gets in contact with unfiltered water. It may labor the filtration process, but the filters are made to cope quite well.

5. Canister Filter They are a bit more expensive, but also highly effective. They come as trays, each filtration process carried out by a different tray. The water will be pushed from the bottom up for some and others will have it the other way around. Make sure you know how each tray works so that you can place them correctly.

Those are 5 great options for a freshwater aquarium filter. Your choice should be based on the size of tank you keep and how often you think you can manage to clean. Remember that whichever kind of filter you get, its going to need cleaning and replacing at some point.

Robert is an experienced aquarist, who owns and maintains his and other people’s aquariums. For more great tips on freshwater aquarium filter, visit http://www.freshwater-aquariumsecrets.com

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How to Recognize Signs of Common Goldfish Diseases

If you own a pet goldfish then it is very important that you know about goldfish diseases and what their symptoms are. Knowing the signs of sickness in your goldfish will allow you to catch the illness before it gets worse; most goldfish fatalities are the result of their owners not realizing that their pet is already sick. In this article the most common of the diseases that goldfish comes into contact with is discussed, and hopefully this will help you extend the life of your goldfish.

Swim Bladder Disease – The signs that there is something wrong with your fish’s swim bladder is if it either stays at the bottom of the tank or near the surface. Their swim bladders act as the ballast for fish, enabling them to dive or surface whenever they like, if there is something wrong with the bladder then swimming becomes problematic for the fish. If you think that your fish has swim bladder disease, try feeding it with frozen peas, if the problem still persists then take it to the veterinarian.

Ich – or white spot disease, is caused by a parasite called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Ich is one of the more common goldfish diseases, it can be recognized as white spots appearing all over the fish’s body. When your fish contracts Ich, you will find it rubbing its body against the hard decorations in your tank in order to scrape away at the growths on its body. This illness is usually caused by introducing an infected fish into your fishtank; which is why it is very important that you only get your goldfish from a reputable breeder.

Dropsy – This is one of the most fatal of goldfish diseases. If this disease is left by itself and allowed to progress, there is little or no chance that your goldfish will survive; that is why it is very important to recognize this disease at an early stage so that treatment can be administered. The symptoms of dropsy are swollen eyes (usually one at a time), massively swollen belly, and the goldfish’s scales stick out of its body rather than lying flat. This disease is mostly caused by bad water condition and poor tank maintenance.

Anchor Worm – Just like Ich, anchor worm is caused by a parasite that has infected your goldfish, but instead of white spots you will see hanging growths at different parts of the fish’s body. And like Ich, anchor worm will cause your goldfish to rub themselves against any rough or hard surface trying scratch the growths off. By itself anchor worm does not pose any serious threat to your fish, though it greatly weakens it’s immune system, making it very susceptible to other kinds of goldfish diseases.

It is true that goldfish are a hardy fish that are able to thrive in any kind of water condition, but they are far from perfect; they still get sick just like other animals. But by recognizing the signs of goldfish diseases you will be able to treat them before they get worse.

For more information on goldfish diseases, please visit My Goldfish Care: http://MyGoldfishCare.com

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Tips Before Buying Fish Supplies

Before setting out to buy fish supplies, there are certain things that you have to understand. A beautiful and healthy aquarium is not merely a product of choosing the right supplies. It is critical for you to remember that the needs vary from one species to another. Here are the basic rules that you should follow:

Factors affecting the health of your fish

An important feature that affects the suitability of the aquarium is water temperature. Sudden variations in water temperature are detrimental to fish health. Some fish can survive in warmer water, while some may not. Tropical fish specifically thrive in a water temperature of between 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a tropical aquarium, you should get a heating and temperature-regulating mechanism from stores selling fish supplies. Examples of aquarium fish that don’t need any temperature control are catfish, darters, goldfish, minnows, and sunfish. Most beginners prefer the more attractive goldfish, though.

Is it your first time buying fish as a pet? If so, stick to cheaper varieties so you won’t be wasting money in case the fish dies. Guppies are small tropical fish that bear plenty of young. They are great for new aquarists for their bright color, strength, and ability to reproduce fast. Other good choices consist of black mollies, platyfish, and swordtails. They’re not as strong as guppies, though.

Certain types of fish don’t get along with each other. If you like a certain kind, ask the attendant at the fish supplies store about fish varieties they are incompatible with. Never put them together in a single tank, or you’ll end up with a tank full of dead fish.

Fish supplies for feeding

The most common cause of fish death is overfeeding. Uneaten food left to dissolve in your tank releases substances that are toxic to fish. Avoid feeding your fish on a daily basis, as tiny animals and plants inside your tank serve as its food supply.

How often should you feed fish? Make sure that feeding doesn’t exceed three times per week. Feed your fish by placing the tiniest bit of food into the tank and observing if your fish can consume this completely in 5 to 10 minutes. Remove excess or leftover food from your tank. Depending on the type of fish that you want to keep as pet, you may also consider adding scavenger fish to rid the water of excess food.

Good sources of a balanced diet for fish are dried fish food, chopped live food and meat, and small vegetable pieces. Boiled spinach and fresh lettuce are best for tropical fish. Pet shops also sell live food, such as water fleas and white or red worms. If you chop up an earthworm, this also makes good fish food.

A word of caution when using live or raw food: if a healthy fish feeds on a sick fish, the former will also be infected. Hence, to keep your fish happy and healthy, just buy food from reputable pet shops. If you use this information to start your own aquarium, you will be greatly rewarded.

Gregory Black is a pet store owner and an aquarium enthusiast who likes to help others succeed in raising their fish as well. He is a featured member and guest speaker at many aquarium clubs, as well as having a few very large tanks of his own. He has extensive knowledge about fish supplies and Python aquarium maintenance products.

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How Often Should I Clean my Beta’s Tank?

It all depends on the size of your tank and the quality of your water. Personally, I believe that the only way to maintain the health of your betta is through massive water changes, but only if you are keeping your fish in a small unfiltered tank. This is the norm for serious breeders, who keep their bettas in small tanks no larger than 1 liter bottles. If you visit betta farms in Thailand, you will know what I mean.

If you have a tank that’s properly filtered and heated, you can perform FULL water changes at least once or twice a month, but make sure you change 20% of the water two or three times a day. However, if you keep your betta in a tank that is unfiltered, then regular siphoning and water changes are a must. The reason is that ammonia can build up a lot faster in small tanks or tanks that do not have filter.

In my case, I keep my favorite betta in an unfiltered 5 gallon tank and use aged water. I also use dechlorinator to get rid of chlorine and chloramine from the water. My water change regimen would include siphoning dirt and betta poop from the bottom of the tank every other day and change 80% of the water. I only perform a FULL water change once a week, so that would basically mean I perform siphoning and 80% water changes at least 3 times a day.

If you keep your fish in a tank that’s smaller than 2.5 gallons, then you should perform FULL water changes every 3 days and siphon dirt and poop and replace 20%-30% of the water every day. to prevent serious ammonia buildup.

This is very important especially if you are keeping a betta with very sensitive fins such as a crowntail or a halfmoon. The reason why I am strict when it comes to water changes is because betta diseases are usually a result of dirty water. If you are worrying about not having to cycle your tank before putting your betta in, you shouldn’t. First of all, show type bettas are selectively bred, which means they require a different treatment than other tropical fish. While cycling a tank is crucial for most tropical fish, the rule doesn’t apply to bettas.

And by the way, my bettas tanks are bare (e.g. no substrate, no live plants, no accessories whatsoever), which makes it easier for me to clean them on a regular basis. It also makes it easier for me to rule things out in case my bettas get sick, since the only thing I can blame when that happens is water quality.

Most betta experts use this method successfully. Try it and see for yourself.

You need to give your pet betta your full devotion if it is going to maintain its beautiful fins and health in general. If you want to know more about bettas and how to care for them, feel free to visit these sites:

http://www.squidoo.com/betta-addiction-betta-diseases

http://www.squidoo.com/betta-addiction-faq-lens

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Freshwater Aquarium Fish Compatibility

If you have a love of fish, and you want to invest in an aquarium and some of the beautiful, exotic species available, there are many things you need to understand about freshwater aquarium fish compatibility. There are several factors to consider when designing your tank and deciding on the type, or types of species you want to include in your aquarium.

You should first consider the actual size of tank you are looking to fill. Freshwater fish can live easily in a five gallon tank, up to a one hundred gallon tank, depending on how many you have. They can live in a glass or acrylic tank, and can swim around many different ornamental or decorative pieces such as rocks, plants, light bulbs and even some plastic toys.

After you decide how large you want your tank to be, you must decide which species you would like to put in it. As a general rule, it would be beneficial to keep all of your fish similar in size, because this will keep the smaller ones from being picked on, and keep the small ones from feeding on the fins of the larger ones. You should also make sure to select species that can survive in the same water temperature and eat the same kind of food. It is also very important to make sure that there is enough food distributed for everyone, because if they have to compete for their food, the smaller ones will die from starvation and can even die from intense stress.

Keeping these things in mind, you want to carefully set up an aquarium that can provide a tranquil and peaceful atmosphere for you and for them. There are three basic categories of freshwater aquarium fish that should be studied before purchase. These three categories are:

1) Community – These are peaceful, quiet, avoid fighting and mind their own business. They are compatible with many other different species, and can be mixed in with a variety of other fish in your aquarium.

2) Semi aggressive – These are a little more energetic and temperamental, and although they are more peaceful when they are small, they will not shy away from taking bites at others as they increase in size. They are still good to include in a community tank, but they will need to be watched as they grow, and can give a good long chase to the other fish.

3) Aggressive – These are just as you would imagine they would be, and that is aggressive. If they are introduced to anything smaller or weaker, they will dominate and bully the others. They can live amongst other aggressive species that are equal in size, but will typically find and pick on the smallest one around them.

Knowing these three categories makes it a little easier to understand and follow the compatibility charts that are listed. A few of the categories on the chart are:

Anabantids include a community such as Dwarf, Flame, Opaline and Pearl Gourami, Siamese fighting, betta, Spiketailed and Paradisefish. The semi aggressive are Honey and Kissing Gourami, and the aggressive are the Black Paradisefish.

Aquarium Catfish that can live in a community are Banjo, Green, Leopard, Spotted and upside down catfish, as well as Bristlenose, Corydoras and Plecostomus species, and there are no aggressive species.

Charachins have a community capability of Cardinal, Congo, Emperor, Black Neon, Black Phantom, Flame, Glowlight, Head and Tail light, Rummy nosed, Serpae and Neon Tetra, as well as Hatchet, Pencil, Bloodfin, Penguin and Xray fish. The semi aggressive group includes Bleeding Heart and Buenos Aires Tetra, Black Widow and the Silver Dollar, and the aggressive pair is the Red Belly and the Piranha.

Cichlids community include the Blue Acara, Discus, Festivum, Ram and freshwater Angelfish. Semi aggressive are the Firemouth and Severum, and the aggressive are the convict, green Terror, dempsey and red Oscar.

Cyprinids communal group is the Cherry Barb, Bala, Shark, Black shark, Blue Danio, White Cloud, Zebra Danio and Harlequin Rasbora. There is no aggressive group, but the semi aggressive group includes Flying Fox, Red tailed shark and the Green Tiger, Rosy, Tiger and Tinfoil Barb fish.

There are several other categories to research so that you can understand freshwater aquarium fish compatibility, and all of these should be read before introducing certain species to each other. If you are serious about having a beautiful and long lasting aquarium collection that will last for years, you must take the time to understand and appreciate the balance that is required for a healthy and successful living environment.

Find out more about setting up and maintaining a fish tank at http://fish-tank-guide.com where you can get tips on some of the most important aspect of hobby aquariums like such as how to maintain the ecosystem of a freshwater aquarium.

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Phosphate Control in Salt Water Aquariums

Saltwater aquarium owners will eventually need to control phosphate levels in their aquariums as the aquarium matures. Phosphate is a nutrient found in aquariums that feeds algae and inhibits calcification of invertebrates and corals.

Phosphate control can help to reduce the amount of algae that grows in an aquarium and will maximize coral growth in saltwater aquariums.

Many aquarium owners might not fully understand the benefits of phosphate control, and therefore might not practice it in their normal aquarium maintenance activities. If you have an established saltwater aquarium that is starting to have regular problems with nuisance algae growth, it’s probably time to start making a conscious effort to control phosphate levels.

Preventing High Phosphate Levels

The first step in battling phosphate levels in an aquarium is to try to prevent the amount of phosphates that are in the aquarium in the first place.

Using purified water that has gone through the process of reverse osmosis is the first step you should take. Buy a reverse osmosis water purifier and use it to purify all water that you will be putting in your aquarium.

If you do not want to buy or utilize a reverse osmosis water purifier you should find some place where you can purchase purified water. Grocery stores or maybe even pet stores (that sell fish) should be able to provide you with a source to purchase purified water.

Reducing High Phosphate Levels

If you already have high phosphate levels in your aquarium, simply switching over to purified water probably won’t help much. The rate at which you add new water to your mature aquarium will not allow you to fully swap in purified water over a short period of time.

You will need to use phosphate removal media in your aquarium to filter out all the phosphates. There are several types of phosphate removal media available from aquarium supply dealers. Take a look online at any aquarium supply dealer and you should be able to easily find some phosphate removal media. It usually is lumped in the same category as other chemical removal media such as activated carbon.

When purchasing phosphate removal media be sure to check the specifications of the brand you are using. The media may behave differently from brand to brand. Some phosphate removal media will require that you remove or replace it within days to prevent leaching of the phosphates back into the aquarium water. Other phosphate media may not need to be replaced as soon, if at all.

Implementing Phosphate Removal Media

Phosphate removal media can be implemented into your aquarium in different ways.

The first method would be to buy and install a phosphate reactor. A phosphate reactor is simply a chamber that sits within the water filtration flow of your aquarium and has an intake and outtake. The chamber is filled with phosphate removal media, which the aquarium water will flow through continuously. Phosphate reactors can be hooked up in the existing water flow plumbing of your aquarium. You can also usually hook up a separate powerhead intake and outtake into your aquarium if needed which will allow you to run the reactor independent of your other aquarium filtration.

A second method would be to buy some mesh media bags and use your current sump filter or canister filter. Fill the mesh bags with phosphate removal media and place them inside your canister filter or sump filter. The mesh bags will prevent the pieces of the media from getting all over the place in your filtration system and will make maintenance and implementation of the media much more easy to handle. The media will then be in the main water flow of your aquarium filtration system.

Once you have implemented phosphate prevention and removal techniques for a period of time, you should notice a decrease in the amount of nuisance algae in you aquarium. You may not need to clean your aquarium as often and your aquarium water quality will be improved.

Luke Petterson has been maintaining a saltwater aquarium for a few years now and has had quite a few good and bad experiences. Taking care of an aquarium takes patience and discipline, but it’s not bad at all if you do your research. Aquarium keeping is also a very rewarding experience.

Visit http://aquarist-refuge.com to learn more about aquariums and aquarium keeping or to browse aquarium videos and other tidbits.

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Guppy Love

I fell in love with these delightful small fish as a young mum with four children. They were an excellent stress reliever! The initial single tank multiplying into four of them, a bit like the speed my guppies multiplied! Of course, I knew very little about guppies, I just liked them.

I now know they are livebearers, and that this species ranges from the humble guppy right through to the Great white shark. You will be aware of the fact that the Great white shark has live fry. I think that is what attracted me to the guppy was the delight of seeing the young in the tank. You will find livebearers from Lake Baikal in Russia, to Cuba, the Amazon and various other parts of the world. Lake Baikal is on my bucket list for next year!

The different locations these fish live in the world means that species have evolved into many varieties of livebearers with their own means of reproduction. The guppy evolved, as have the Platies and mollies, into fish where the male anal fin becomes a rod type appendage when the fish reaches sexual maturity.

The gonopodium is not hollow, instead it forms a groove created by the rays of the fin, allowing the male to send the sperm to the female. The end of the gonodium has small hooks that catch the female in the correct position; this ensures sperm is directed into the female.

Amazingly, the female can store sperm for using later. Therefore, when you buy a pregnant female from the store or a specialist it is very likely you will have several broods of fry without the presence of the male in the tank. If you have two or three females, it makes a quiet aquarium for them. I think half the pleasure in having a male is watching his desperate attempts at mating!

Having just females allows you time to take note of when they are due to drop their fry. It is a lot easier to notice when they swim quietly with out being hassled by the male. You then have time to move the female into another fry tank if you wish to increase your stock, or start a breeding scheme. Separating the mother allows you to pick out color varieties that you fancy specializing in once the fry have grown. Keep in mind this can take a long time and a lot of patience. Guppy mums breed every four to six weeks so there is always lots to keep you busy and interested. Each female will add another 40-60 fry to your tank if conditions are right for them

If you have a tank with no restraints on who breeds with whom, keep a look out for what is called a sport. This term means you may see a fish that is very different to the rest of the aquarium. It will still be a guppy, if that is what you have in the tank. The difference will show in its size, color, fins or tail style. If it attracts you, make efforts to separate it and consider how you could change or what improvements would be possible.

This is where some of the fascination comes from in having fish. Over my years of keeping fish, I only ever struck one of these fish, so it does not happen very often. When you consider the number of fry that are born it becomes quite rare.

Maman is a sixty plus liberated woman despite having a husband and four children. She trained as a nurse and remains interested in health issues. Spent many years farming achieving farm management qualifications and a real insight into animal husbandry. The next career change included a Diploma in Real Estate and business management, covering buildings and their construction. Growing older then included some time in the hospitality industry and business.
http://guppycare.info

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