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Old Dogs 101 – How to Help Your Canine Senior Live As Comfortably As Possible

Reaching old age for a dog is often the result of good luck, good life habits by the dog’s owner, and in the end, just plain good genetics. If you already have an old dog, skip over the next paragraph and read ahead for tips on caring for your senior citizen. But if you’re in the market for a new dog, there is a recipe to help improve your future pet’s odds for longevity.

The list of ingredients starts with a puppy bred by a responsible breeder. Prospective parents should be screened with health tests appropriate for their breed before being bred. Add to that a nurturing and stimulating puppy hood. Next, feed a quality premium food for the life of the dog.These days there are specialty diets for puppies and seniors, giant breeds and toys, food for joint health and for dogs with diabetes or kidney disease. Feed the diet that’s right for your dog. Blend in regular examinations with a veterinarian. Vaccinations are available to prevent 13 different canine diseases and dental check-ups should be as routine as an inoculations. Mix in a safe environment. That means a fenced yard or leashed walks, fenced or covered ponds and swimming pools, an I.D. tag on their collar, and protection from household chemicals, dangerous wildlife and dogs you don’t know. Let this all sit until your dog is old, gray, grizzled and has more love for you than ever before.

When is a dog old? We used to think that every dog year was equivalent to seven human years. Experts now tell us that a dog’s size and breed influence this answer and there are charts to be found on the Internet that are the updated versions of this information.

Once you determine that your dog is “old,” what next? Let’s break down the areas which most immediately impact your old dog:

Nutrition: Energy requirements decrease about 20 – 20% in senior dogs which accounts for the increased percentage of fat content in their bodies Fat dogs die younger than leaner dogs. Keep your oldster trim; It used to be believed that reduced protein spared the kidneys in older dogs. In the book, “Eternal Puppy.” written by Janice Willard, DVM, however, the author shares studies that suggest that older dogs need more high quality protein, not less, to prevent muscle wasting. Optimal protein levels are a controversial topic among nutritionists, but unless your dog has kidney disease, it may not be a good idea to reduce your old dog’s protein intake. Older dogs have decreased intestinal motility which sometimes make them more prone to constipation. Avoid a high fiber diet, but with your vet’s consent, consider increasing soluble and insoluble fibers.Consumption of vegetables, especially leafy greens, correlate with a reduction in certain forms of cancer, so consider adding a few fruit and vegetables to your dog’s diet – very slowly, at first. Give it frequently even if it isn’t eaten. Old dogs don’t always enjoy new things, but if offered routinely or in different form (frozen peas as a crunchy treat vs cooked ones) they may take to it.Add omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil) to your dog’s diet; Studies have shown that Fish oil supplementation may be helpful for pets with inflammatory diseases including allergies, arthritis, kidney disease, heart disease, and cancers.You may not notice changes for at least six to eight weeks, so be patient, and be sure to consult your veterinarian when embarking on anything new.

Flooring: Hard flooring is not only hard on a dog’s joints, but offers little traction and puts an old dog at risk for blowing out an ACL or hip. Put down small vinyl-backed rugs for those high traffic spots where the dog is apt to turn a corner or run to go outside.

Bedding: Your senior will spend more time sleeping, so offer the best kind of bedding you can mange. Here are some of your choices:Heated dog beds can be highly therapeutic for dogs with achy joints. They work like heating pads and are especially appreciated by thin and/or tiny dogs Gel filled orthopedic beds offer maximum support, comfort and superior weight distribution. The new Gel foam beds contain heat sensitive memory foam type material that custom forms to pets’ bodies, easing pressure on legs and hips. The gel helps keep pets cool in the summer by maintaining a lower ambient temperature, while the foam helps keep pets warm in the winter with dense insulation. Memory foam beds are made from (ta da!) memory foam which was first developed by NASA years ago. Foam beds are another type of body-conforming bed that reduces pressure on joints. Dog Waterbeds can provide therapeutic benefits for pain, Hip Dysphasia, Cushing’s Disease, Hygromas, Allergies, Calluses, Post Surgery, Senior Canines, Post Chemotherapy, Skin Conditions, Elbow Dysphasia, and Canine Auto-Immune Hemolytic Anemia. Standard orthopedic beds are generally made with a 3″ egg crate. Although these beds are probably the lowest in price, the aforementioned options tend to provide better support and comfort for an old dog.

Incontinence: It happens to the best of us. Don’t get mad since given the choice, your dog would rather not have the problem, either. In many cases of canine incontinence, a hormone deficiency is the source of the problem and these are typically treated through the use of drugs such as Diethylstilbestrol. If your vet determines that there is no medical reason for incontinence other than simple aging, however, there are several solutions to combat everything from periodic “dribbling”to all-out flooding;- Just pick the one best for your dog’s situation: If the problem occurs during crating or in the night when your dog is sleeping and s/he doesn’t move around much, re-usable protective pads will work just fine. There are a mind-numbing array of disposable options which a Google search will display.

If the problem is more “mobile,” there are disposable diapers that feature elastic, no-leak gathers and resealable Velcro tape. You can also make your own “belly bands” for boys and again, a Google search will show you how. For a “no sew” version, insert a sanitary napkin inside the length of a man’s crew sock (the man should be out of the sock when you do this), and attach sticky-backed Velcro at each end. One economical solution to pricey disposables is to purchase two or three washable diapers in which pads can be inserted and disposed of when soiled.We’ve been impressed with the fit and durability of Simple Solutions diapers which can be found at Petsmart.

The Handicapped Dog: Older dogs, or dogs with arthritis, degenerative myelopathy (DM) and spinal problems can sometimes lose the use of their back legs. This is NOT catastrophe. A dog can still walk and get the exercise they need with a sling or dog wheelchair. To see a dog wheelchair in action, check out “Denali” on Google. For some dogs, a sling works perfectly well as it allows the dog’s owner to maneuver medium and large dogs without lifting the entire weight of the dog. If this looks like a solution for you, be sure to get a sling that’s ergonomically designed with adjustable handles that allow you to stand erect and maintain your center of gravity.You can’t very well help your disabled dog if your own back is thrown “out.’

Hearing Loss: By the time an owner notices hearing loss in their dog – usually in the 4th quarter of a dog’s life, it’s probable that the loss has been progressive and has finally passed a threshold where it’s now noticeable. Hearing aids are still impractical for a dog and we are left to do what we can to protect the dog. We should be especially careful when walking a hearing impaired dog off-lead. Such a dog won’t hear his owner call from a distance and may well get lost and become at risk from approaching cars or other animals.

Blindness: The cloudiness we see in our senior dogs’ eyes is usually sclerosis, or hardening of the lens of the eye. The light-transmitting capabilities of the lens is still intact and the dog has lost little of its vision, so think of as looking through a cheap shower curtain. Up close, you can see through the curtain, but at a distance, it’s a bit more opaque. Glaucoma and cataracts do occur in dogs and any changes in vision, discharge, squinting, swelling or redness should be seen by a vet right away. If nothing can be done to reverse blindness, take heart in the fact that blind dogs adjust pretty well by using memorized routes around the house and feel the vibrations from radios, TVs and the floor to gauge where they are.

Taste: A geriatric dog may have only 25% of the taste buds he had at a year old, so if your senior is losing weight for no apparent reason that a vet can determine, food may have become tasteless for your dog. Try increasing the tastiness of food with eggs, seasonings, shredded cheeses (especially the “smelly” kind), a sprinkling of fish bits or a “schmear” of Braunschweiger over the top of the food.

Arthritis:Because cartilage cannot repair itself,it is impossible to heal arthritis once it has begun.At best, we can slow degeneration, reduce inflammation and limit pain. Most of us are familiar with Rimadyl, a steroidal anti-inflammatory drug used for the relief of arthritic symptoms in geriatric dogs. Aspirin, even low dosage or buffered, is NOT a good option for pain management in dogs. Studies show increased risk of stomach bleeding. Don’t do it. Currently, early research looks promising with glucosamine and chondroitin combinations and omega-3 fatty acids. In our own house, each adult dog gets 1,200 mg. of fish oil, and a table that combines 1500 mg of glucosamine with 1200 mg of chondroitin daily. Our veterinarian is fine with this, but always check with your own vet before starting anything new. Substances such as MSM, hyaluronic aci, New Zealand green-lipped mussels and other antioxidents may also benefit cartilage and joint fluid, but the jury is out on how they work and because these substances aren’t regulated by the FDA for dogs, dog owners have to be careful.

Dentistry: By four years of age, 85% of dogs will have some form of periodontal disease. Older dogs are at an increased risk for dental disease because they have reduced salivary production. With a drier mouth, food sticks to teeth more which increases bacteria. Bacteria can enter the bloodstream and travel to places it doesn’t belong. Periodontal disease has been implicated in the development and acceleration of diseases in the kidneys, heart, liver and brain. CLEAN YOUR DOG’S TEETH. If your dog’s teeth have been neglected, a professional cleaning may be in order. Ask your vet about putting the dog on a course of antibiotics before the scheduled cleaning to combat bacteria, and make sure they are aware of the dog’s age. Anesthesia has come a long way and isn’t quite as risky for an old dog as it used to be. But it’s still anesthesia and should be seriously considered before using, particularly if your breed has issues with anesthesia.

IVD or Idiopathic Vestibular Disease is the most common disease on old dogs that you may not be familiar with. Characterized by symptoms that almost resemble a stroke, these signs include a head tilt, nausea and rapid eye movement. To learn more about this syndrome, check out the January 2008 issue of KnobNotes in our archives to read more about IVD, also known as the geriatric disease.

Boredom: Most dogs are active by default, hunting, show and performance dogs even more so. But when physical abilities diminish and a dog becomes less capable of their former tasks, other ways must be found to keep their minds active. Toys are only toys if the dog interacts and plays with them, otherwise they become just more “stuff” on the living room floor. Food puzzles are rewarding because they invite interaction. The Molecuball, Buster Cube,Busy Buddies and Canine Genius all offer interesting food puzzles that help stimulate a dog’s mind as they reward effort.

We’re just scratched the surface of issues that confront senior dogs and their owners. If you are blessed with an “oldster” in your house, you’ll want to investigate some great books that offer additional information:

“Eternal Puppy” by Janice Willard, DVM;
“How To Make An Old Dog Happy” by Olivier Lagalisse;
“Speaking for Spot,” by Dr. Nancy Kay “The Senior Dog” by Heike Schmidt-Roger/ Susanne Blank;

S.E.Szeremy is a writer, breeder/owner/handler of Pulik and creator of [http://KnobNots.com], the Friendly Alternative to Beware of Dog signs that transform every door into a safety billboard for people and pets

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Susi_Szeremy

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Dog Mange: Why Bugs are Mean

Mange is a skin disease that may occur on dogs, which are entirely caused by the presence of mites that cause harm and discomfort by being attaching themselves onto your dog to feed; in other words, they are parasites. Pretty similar to fleas, but these little guys are tiny in comparison. They’re no less deadly, though, so let’s get cracking on what makes them tick, and what makes them weep.

Causes

There are two types of mites that can cause mange in dogs. They’re both considered ‘mites’, but their appearance and modus operandi (gosh, what a smart phrase) are vastly different from each other. Because the strategies for defeating either subspecies differ slightly due to their characteristics, it’s necessary to discuss both of them in equally great detail. Let’s start with the weaker of the two, first.

Demodex Mites

The first one we’ll talk about is called a ‘Demodex mite’. These things look like microscopic squid or maybe a cigar, and usually cause full-blown mange by reproducing and exponentially multiplying their population on your dog’s fur.

The good news is that Demodex mites are easily beaten by a full-grown dog’s immune system. Meaning, if you have a puppy and he’s getting mange symptoms, it’s very likely that he just doesn’t have a fully developed immune system to combat them yet and that they won’t ever trouble him again once he reaches maturity. However, if you do have a full-grown dog with these things being the cause of it (which will be determined when you visit the vet proper), it means that they’re not entirely healthy. If that happens, make sure to address the underlining problems while you attempt to treat the mange.

Demodex mites are contagious, but remember that unlike puppies and those that already have their immune systems weakened, most adult dogs can handle them with no problems. Transmission from dog to human is also impossible, so don’t worry about having close contact.

Sarcoptic Mites

This is the more dangerous of the two. The Sarcoptic Mite looks like a fat little creep that will dig through the skin to get what it wants. Its ‘excavations’ causes intense itchiness and crusty skin, which will cause your dog to frantically scratch in the affected region. Usually it gets so bad that dogs tend to scratch themselves raw, causing all sorts of secondary skin damage and increasing the chances of an infection.

They are also highly contagious and can affect dogs of all ages, including humans! Therefore, if you suspect that your dog is suffering from sarcoptic mange, do your best to get yourself checked out as well, as there is a chance of you getting hit by the parasite as well.

Sarcoptic mites take extra effort to treat, due to its tendency to burrow under the skin, its contagiousness and the possibility of dog-to-human transmission, but it’s not a complete nightmare.

Symptoms

You’ll know if your dog has mange when he suffers from a loss of fur at some patches of his body, as well as a tendency to scratch or bite furiously at the affected parts. Red blisters may also form within the problem areas. Now granted, those symptoms describe every known dog skin problem known to mankind as well, but at the very least, this should tell you that your dog isn’t just scratching himself idly.

What you need to do next is to be sure that your dog has got mange. In order to do that, you’ll have to determine that your dog has got mites on him. To do that, you will need to get your pet to a vet and take a skin scraping test done for him.

This skin scraping test involves just that – scraping your dog’s skin to get any foreign objects hanging onto it. If your dog has mites, they’ll soon be exposed to you. One thing to note though: scraping the skin will more often than not turn up mites of the Demodex variety, as they live on the skin’s surface. However, if you don’t see any on the initial results, it may not mean that there are no mites. Sarcoptic mites will undoubtedly be harder to find as they go under the skin instead, but it’s still possible to get traces of them if you look hard enough.

Treatment

So, now that you’ve found mites on your dog, what’s next? Well, it depends on who’s the culprit, because there are different methods and strategies for each type of mite. We’ll start with Demodex mites, first.

The first thing you should know is that Demodex mange in puppies will slowly start to disappear as they grow older, when their immune systems start functioning to their fullest extent. If you want to be sure about getting rid of them, though, a few more skin scrapings from the vet will help to remove more of the parasites. Medicine is also available for older dogs that are inflicted with Demodex mange due to a weakened immune system.

Sarcoptic mange, on the other hand, will most likely be an uphill battle. This will be made all the more so if your dog is in a rather serious condition before starting treatment, so I really hope your dog never gets to experience that. Anyway, Because of the contagiousness of the Sarcoptic mite, you will have to undertake three phases of cleaning: your dog’s surroundings, your dog and yourself.

For your first step, you will need to sterilize your dog’s belongings, including and especially their toys and beds. Give them a good scrubbing, preferably with antibacterial shampoo made for dogs, and soak them in hot water. After that, start your dog on a tight regime of showers at least twice a week using the same shampoo that was also used to clean their stuff, as well as some medication prescribed by your vet.

Your home will also have to go through a good cleaning to be safe, because those mites can appear from anywhere your dog has been lately. Vacuum it, spray something on it, give it a good wipe – whatever it takes to eradicate the bugs. Lastly, have yourself checked out for mites, as they can be transmitted from your dog without you knowing it. They could go back to him just as easily once he’s cleaned up, and you don’t want to have bugs on your body too, do you?

Conclusion

As you may know by now, mange is a pretty ugly symptom when you first see it on your dog, and they cause a lot of harm if left unchecked too. Lucky for you, you’ve got all the information you need here to start fighting those bugs! Hopefully, they’ll know what’s best for them and move out of dog-town before you really get to work on it, but like someone famous once said, life isn’t exactly a bed of roses, is it? Good luck with your bug hunt!

If you like what you just read and are starving for more, don’t fret – there’s more where that came from! Just click on http://dogskintreatments.com to find out more about other types of dog skin problems and how to help your dog get better. Even if your dog is happy and healthy right now, remember that prevention is always better than cure. After all, you can’t be certain that he won’t ever get them in future, right?

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The Nutrients Needed for Every Dog

Dogs like humans need the proper nutrients in their food in order to stay healthy and have a lot of energy. They need energy in the form of calories. The nutrients that provide that energy are fats, proteins and carbohydrates. Without all three of these nutrients, your dog could end up unhealthy and have very low energy levels. Your dog also needs certain vitamins and water. Here is a breakdown of each:

Fats: Fat is an energy dense nutrient. High-quality fat sources come mainly from animal fat. They are usually a mixture of saturated and unsaturated fats. Dogs use fats that are commonly known as Omega-6 long-chained acids. Another common type of fat is the Omega-3 fats. Omega-3 fats include qualities such as anti-inflammatory qualities and potential help to decrease the risk of certain types of cancers and tumors.

These fats usually come from fish oils and linseed oil. Too much of the Omega-3 fatty acids can be dangerous to your dog. This is because the blood thinning qualities can inhibit clotting and the potential for bleeding out if the dog is injured could be a great risk.

Protein: Again, protein is an essential nutrient. It’s the main component of enzymes, hormones, and antibodies. Protein helps to repair muscle, build and maintain plasma volume and red blood cells, and build mitochondrial volume in working dogs. Protein contains 23 different amino acids. Out of these 23, your dog’s body will manufacture 13. The other 10 amino acids must come from your dog’s nutrition. So you can see how important protein is to your dog’s well-being.

Carbohydrates: Because dogs primarily eat meat, they need much less carbohydrate than humans, although carbohydrates do play an important role in your dog’s health. Carbs provide energy, fiber, and replacement of glycogen in your dog’s cells. Fiber helps in absorbing water and in maintaining good bowel movements.

Vitamins: Vitamins are a very important part of your dog’s health. If a dog food is formulated to the AAFCO standards, your dog will have all of the vitamins he needs. So there would be no reason to give him supplements. Some of the vitamins your dog needs are:

 

  • Vitamin A for the immune system, eyes, growth and repair of the body tissues, skin, hair and reproduction
  • Vitamin D for his bones and teeth
  • Vitamin E for muscles, heart, blood and also reproduction
  • Thiamine or B1 for the whole nervous system
  • Riboflavin or B2 for the eyes, skin, nails, nervous system and hair
  • Pantothenic acid for adrenal glands, nervous system, skin, and hair
  • Niacin for the blood, heart, and nervous system
  • Pyridoxine or B6 for the immune system, nervous system, and blood
  • Folic acid for reproduction, blood, and bones
  • Vitamin B12 for the blood and nervous system
  • Choline for the nervous system, blood, and bones

 

Vitamins also help in metabolic functions like conversion of glucose into energy and the transference of chemicals at the cellular level.

The minerals your dog needs are:

 

  • Calcium and phosphorus for bones and muscle
  • Potassium for the nervous system, heart, and cells
  • Sodium for the cells and water metabolism
  • Chloride for cells and water metabolism
  • Magnesium for the nervous system, muscles, and bones
  • Iron for the blood
  • Copper for the blood
  • Manganese for the bones and reproduction system
  • Zinc for skin, hair, bones, muscles and the immune system
  • Iodine for the thyroid
  • Selenium for the bones and heart

 

Minerals are very important to your dog’s diet. A lot of minerals though are linked. Too much of one particular mineral can interfere with the absorption of other minerals and can actually cause deficiencies. You need to make sure you feed your dog a balanced diet and not give him supplements unless there is an obvious deficiency.

Water is the most important nutrient your dog can get. Just like humans, dogs can’t live very long without water. If he doesn’t get enough water, he will become dehydrated and can die. You should always have plenty of fresh water available and make sure you know where it comes from. Streams and creeks can contain parasites and organisms which could harm or kill your dog. Knowing the nutrients your dog needs will help keep your dog at optimum health.

Learn more about your dogs health and nutritional needs by going to http://caninesavvy.com

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Dog Supplies

Where do you turn when Fifi needs a new collar with more bling? What if Fido needs a tux for so he can be best dog at your wedding? You look online, of course. pet supplies have sure changed in recent years. Used to be that you had to settle for the limited stock the pet store in town had. And if they were all out of something you had to wait until they ordered a new supply. Not anymore. Pet supplies are big business on the internet and that’s good news for you.

You’ll find everything you need from a rhinestone collar for your Chihuahua to a tuxedo for your bulldog. There are even wedding gowns so your rat terrier can be as dressed up as the bride on her wedding day. People love their dogs and pet supplies are tailor made to fall in love with.

Cute is in when it comes to pet supplies. Gone are the days of the bland brown collar and grey metal food bowl. Now there are collars made of eel skin leather and bowls of hand painted Italian ceramic. Your dog doesn’t have to dirty a paw when she goes out for her walks. She can wear designer doggie booties. And if she prefers, she can ride in a designer handbag dog carrier.

Pets are like children to some people. When there’s a special dog in your life he really is like a member of the family. And when you shop for something as important as a doggie bed or a flea shampoo, you want to make sure you are getting the very best quality.

The selection online for pets is unbelievable. You can get anything and everything shipped right to your door, including their medication. Any pampered pooch can have their favorite treat overnighted to them via FedEx. And if there’s a special event that all the chic dogs will be at, yours can be on the best dressed list.

From designer dog tags to rhinestone booties, pets have it made when their moms and dads shop on the internet. Search to your heart’s content. You’ll be giggling with delight over the cuddly and adorable supplies you find.

And if you’re worried about your dog’s health, and who wouldn’t be, you can even shop for pet insurance online. Should anything happen to your beloved, his medical bills will be covered. That’s peace of mind for everyone.

Pet owners, start your computers!

Alexander Sutton applies his direct experience and knowledge of the industry to help people enjoy the best values possible. For more information, please visit Dog supplies.

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How to Prevent Travel Sickness in Dogs

There are dogs that really love riding the car with their masters but there are those that can’t tolerate car travel. For dog owners who face the problems of travel sickness in dogs here are some helpful ways to prevent them from happening:

  • Puppies are most susceptible to car sickness this is because they have under developed ear structures that makes them easily nauseous. If you have a puppy it would be best to prepare for the worst case scenario. Place several towels or newspapers underneath your pet in case he vomits. Training your puppy for short trips is best done at a very early age. This way as your dog grows and develops his inner ear structure he will be able to tolerate and enjoy car travel with you.
  • Securing your dog with a harness or a dog car cage can make him feel at ease and comfortable. The main cause of travel sickness in adult dogs is anxiety, making your dog comfortable and at ease will remove his anxiety and will make car travel with your dog a fun and pleasant experience.
  • Training your dog to car travel with you is still the best way to prevent car travel sickness in dogs. When training your dog to the motion of the car it is best to secure him at the back seat of the car facing forward to avoid visual cues that could make him dizzy. Train your dog for 10minute car trips at first and if he is doing fine you can gradually increase the time of his car training.
  • Unrestrained dogs are very susceptible to motion sickness. Dogs that are not properly restrained in the vehicle while moving is often prone to motion sickness securing your pet in a harness at the back seat or a dog car cage can prevent car sickness and other possible injuries.

Travel sickness in dogs can be avoided without the help of medication. With proper training and a little patience you can help your dog overcome car travel sickness. Your dog can easily overcome car travel sickness or motion sickness with the proper training and if you are successful with your pet’s car training you are now on your way to a wonderful journey with your beloved dog. Just remember to always observe safety when car traveling with your dog to avoid any possible accidents on the road and always plan ahead if you want to travel with your dog.

Tracey Patterson has been working with dog behavior and dog safety. If you want to car travel with your dog but don’t know how to properly prepare or do it you can check out “car travel with dogs” and we will show you how.

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Diabetic Dog Symptoms

Has your dog been acting odd, or eating the same yet losing weight? Learn what the symptoms of canine diabetes are and when you may need to see the vet.

Of course, if your dog seems to be acting in any unusual way, you are the best judge, of when your pet needs to visit the Veterinarian. With this in mind, what are some Dog Diabetes Symptoms? In early stage dog diabetes, you may notice that your fuzz ball is drinking unusually large amounts of water, frequent urination’s also accompanies this insatiable apatite for water. If you find yourself filling your dogs water dish more often, or it seems that your dog constantly needs to go potty, this may be a sign of something more. Another early sign of uncontrolled blood sugar is lethargy, if your pet seems to lay around more than usual or has no interest in play this can be a sign that your dogs blood sugar is uneven.

In later stage and severe diabetes you may notice that your dog is eating normally or even more than usual yet is loosing weight. Uneven sugars tend to change the way that your dog will digest food, you may also notice unexplained loose stool. Other signs of canine diabetes are extreme weakness, vomiting, and shaking, should you notice any of these symptoms you should see your vet immediately.

Only your Veterinarian can tell you for sure if your dog is diabetic, this is usually done be taking multiple blood samples at different times of the day, and different days of the week, from this testing, your Doctor can make a base line of your dogs blood sugar. If your dog is diagnosed with diabetes, this is absolutely not a death sentence. Your dogs blood sugar can easily be controlled with insulin. Just as in humans, diet and exercise go a very long way in controlling this disease. Unfortunately there is no oral medication for dealing with your dogs sugar levels, injections are currently the only available medical treatment.

Your canine will usually adjust very quickly to having his or her blood tested. You may consider making your dog a diabetic dog treat recipe, and reward your dogs glucose testing with a special treat, followed by some play time. Play and exercise are very important parts of treating your dog, exercise stimulates your dogs metabolism, thus increasing insulin production. One other key component in treating your diabetic dog is feeding smaller portions more times throughout the day, this type of feeding will reduce sugar spikes.

When properly treated, your diabetic dog can live a long and happy life.

For more information concerning diabetic dogs, please visit my Dog Diabetes Symptoms page.

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Are Cats Smarter Than Dogs?

For as long as I can remember I have heard that dogs are much smarter than cats.

However, I have felt that just because a dog will do tricks and most cats don’t, is not reason enough to say cats are not smart.

My theory has always been that cats are so smart that they won’t learn any tricks unless they want to.

It is not something they have to do.

Dogs by nature are social animals and their main goal in life besides eating, is to please their people.

Cats on the other hand lack the “gene” that makes it important to please anyone, but themselves.

Why have I brought this subject up?

Well I read an article that discussed feline intelligence in Cat Watch, a magazine put out by Cornell’s School of Veterinary Medicine.

It went on to say, at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine, researchers have found that the structure of a cat’s brain and that of a human brain are very similar.

To quote the article “the physical structure of our brain and that of cats are very similar: they have the same lobes in the cerebral cortex (the seat of intelligence) as we do. Our brains function the same way, conveying data via identical neurotransmitters.”

What that means, is our cats take in data from the 5 senses and process it just like we do.

Hmmmmm, thinking cats. Who would ever believe that?

But, it is true, cats process things in a way similar to our way of thinking. They actually make decisions.

Animal Discovery.com says that cats are: “incredibly resourceful and self-reliant, the species has survived thousands of years in radically different environments and living conditions. Even domestic cats show a crafty, strong-willed and versatile nature.”

There is so much about cats that we take for granted or if the truth be known, we don’t even think about.

When we see a cat sitting in a doorway or staring off into space, we just laugh at it, not realizing that the cat is actually thinking about what it is going to do next.

The cat is surveying the situation, using its 5 senses to determine whether it is safe or not to move onward.

We think of a cat as a somewhat anti-social animal because it is solitary by nature, but cats can adapt to conditions just as we do.

“The fact that a cat can adapt to different situations is a sign of intelligence, that goes beyond conditioning or instinct,” says Dr. Julia Albright of Cornell’s Veterinary School.

Cats do socialize with each other, if the situation warrants it: such as meeting at an eating or drinking place (the barn, fishing pier or where someone feeds stray cats.)

Did you know that domesticated female cats and lions are the only two species of cat that will raise their young in a group with other mothers, if it is necessary?

Cats also learn by observation.

Just because kitty is sitting there staring into space does not mean it is daydreaming. It may be learning, by watching you, how to open the cupboard door.

Kittens that are raised without their mother or other cats to observe, do not do a lot of things we consider normal behavior for cats.

Cats also retain memory, they are smart enough to know when they are scolded not to do that behavior in front of you again. They will wait until your back is turned.

Dogs on the other hand will repeat a bad behavior several times, before it finally sinks in that they are not supposed behave that way.

We will all agree that dogs are easier to train to do tricks than cats, but dogs have the predisposition to please and learning tricks is one way to please.

Cats can learn tricks, but it is harder to get them to do things, unless you provide a reward that is really appealing.

There is also the thought that dogs have been selectively bred for certain behaviors, cats have been cats forever.

There has not been a time when a cat has been selectively bred to hunt, catch birds or play only with blue yarn balls.

I agree that the particular breeds of cat have been kept as pure as possible, but have you ever heard of a cat species being bred to do a chore such as “rounding up mice.”

In truth I guess it is impossible to say which species is smarter, dogs or cats, but I will leave you with this thought, “dogs have masters, cats have staff.”

Need I say more?

I have been a cat lover for more years than I can count. Cats have been an intriguing part of my life, I am fascinated by their behavior and attitude. Each of my cats have different personalities and I have found that I do not train them, they train me. In fact, I am the best trained member of my cats’ staff. If you have enjoyed this article, please visit my web site: http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com

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Are Laser Pointers Save for Your Puppy or Dog?

Are laser pointers safe to use with dogs for training or play? Some dogs have developed serious “obsessive-compulsive” type behaviors (known as a “stereotypie”) when allowed to chase the dot from a laser pointer, yet others do not develop these behaviors. So how do we know if our dog is at risk of developing a stereotypie when exposed to a laser pointer, and is the light dangerous to our dog’s eyes?

Some breeds seem to have a greater tendency to develop abnormal behavior when exposed to a laser pointer, but these breeds are also popular as Service Dogs and many have been trained to ‘target’ a laser dot in their work without developing abnormal behaviors. So, while some people say that certain breeds should not be allowed to play with laser dots, that does not mean that your particular dog of this breed will develop a stereotypie. Conversely, it does not mean that just because you don’t have a dog of one of these breeds your dog is safe, either.

Some signs that a stereotypie may be developing are:

- pawing or scratching at the area/s where the dot was last seen for more than 1 minute after the dot has gone

- patrolling the area/s where the dot was last seen more than 1 minute earlier

- repeatedly returning to the area/s where the dot has been seen for no apparent reason other than to chase the dot again

- developing strong chasing behaviors for other light or shadow sources

If your dog displays any of the above signs then it is time to stop using the laser pointer as your dog is at risk of developing a serious behavioral problem. You should consult an experienced animal behaviorist if using a laser pointer is important to any of your training goals.

It is strongly recommended that you do not use the laser pointer to play games with your dog. Nearly every dog will enjoy chasing the laser dot, but it is not worth the risk. There are safer games to play, and dogs who enjoy chasing laser dots will probably be just as happy to chase a ball or play tug.

If you are training your dog to ‘target’ a laser dot, then approach training with the aim of minimising chasing behavior. Introduce movement slowly, and be mindful that you are teaching your dog to ‘target’ using some specific behavior that you have defined and trained. I suspect the risk of a stereotypie developing is minimised when training is approached in this manner.

Treatment for obsessive light or shadow chasing should be performed under the guidance of a veterinary behaviorist. Medications are available which may be effective. Do not under any circumstances attempt to punish obsessive light or shadow chasing.

Is the light from a laser pointer safe for a dog’s eyes? Generally, the light emitted from a laser pointer is very weak and will probably only cause temporary dazzling if pointed directly into a dog’s eye by accident. Prolonged or repeated exposure could be harmful and should be avoided.

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of http://www.PositivePetzine.com, a free ezine for people training their own dogs. Each edition has easy to use training advice based on positive reinforcement methods. Subscribers have access to a large archive of back-issues they can consult for just about any behavior or behavior problem.

As Featured On Best Ezines

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Enrich Your Life – Rescue a Border Collie

Having sadly lost our faithful companion of almost 14 years recently I decided the only thing to do was to write about her. The grieving process gave rise to a blog, a video tribute and the posting of lots of pictures, and then the decision to get another dog.

The decision was difficult but made quickly, as my old dog was a rescue dog and I think would have wanted another unwanted pet to have the chance of a loving home. She had always seemed especially loving and grateful to have found a permanent home after having had 5 homes in the 7 months of her life and she was a very special dog.

Personally I would only get a pet from a rescue centre as there are so many deserving animals there that need homes. Through no fault of their own they’ve been put up for adoption, sometimes unwanted, abandoned and at the worst of times badly treated or neglected.

Our dog, Tippy, was a border collie cross and some would consider her typical of the breed: very intelligent, agile and fleet of foot, and rather neurotic at times. However, when you consider quirkiness in a dog it doesn’t seem much different than our human quirks and foibles.

With patience and love most dogs will become loyal and faithful companions. Dogs want to please their human friends and just need to be given clear direction as to what is expected of them. As with humans, they need consistency and positive reinforcement when doing things right.

Border collies are traditionally working dogs, with one well-known image being the sheep dogs on One Man and His Dog, rounding up sheep (or geese). They are good farm dogs, where they can roam free but have a defined role to play.

Border collies are said to come from the borders of Scotland and England (hence the name “border” collie). It’s a strange coincidence that my ancestors date are said to hail from the borders, which maybe explains my border collie affinity.

I’ve just been lucky enough to adopt a border collie called Holly from Northiam Blue Cross (in Sussex, I live in Bedfordshire!). She is seven years old. Far from slowing down she is full of energy. Her passion in life is chasing balls and she never seems to tire of it.

It is early days but we expect she will make a fantastic goalie dog when the boys are playing football as she is extremely fast, athletic and precise and has incredible paw/eye coordination.

Being a border collie, Holly is very intelligent and we will learn a lot from each other as we start our new life together. The “getting to know you” process is a long one that requires love, acceptance and patience on both sides. But, oh, so rewarding. Just like any new relationship.

I work from home which is ideal for a new dog, especially one that is insecure from long lonely months at the animal shelter. However, she will have to learn that working from home means I need to work in between our lovely long walks, and that this is not just another opportunity to play endless hours of ball!

Border collies love water and a paddling pool is a must for the hot Summer days if you don’t live near the a lake, river or the sea. They love the beach, playing ball or Frisbee in the sand – at a very high standard, sometimes competitively – and playing in the sea.

We discovered a funny thing about Holly on the way home. She started crying in the car and we weren’t sure if it was Robbie Williams playing on the radio, upset at moving again, or something else. She seemed desperate to move to the front of the car. After some changing of seats and trying various things out we realised she just wanted to stick her head out of the window. Once she could feel the breeze on her face and the wind in her ears she was as happy as anything.

So, now all we need to do is move to California!

For more information and personal real life stories about rescuing Border Collies and on Holly herself visit http://hollydogblog.blogspot.com/ or http://hubpages.com/hub/Why-rescue-a-border-collie

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Train Using a Clicker

A clicker is a small, hand held, toy-like object with a metal strip inside; when you press the metal strip, it makes a sharp, very distinctive click, much like the sound of a camera. Clicker training is a clever, popular way to train dogs. It’s a fun, fast, and positive approach to encouraging good behavior and teaching obedience and tricks.

Some people (like me) use the clicker when introducing a new concept, especially with distractible dogs, and then phase off its use after the dog knows the trick or movement. Others use the clicker for training their dog full time, affixing it to their body like jewelry. Other people can’t master the coordination or just don’t like using it.

To use this gadget, you have to figure out the best way to use the clicker, and you have to work with your dog (very briefly) to help her understand what a click means. In this section, I discuss how clicker training works, give you some examples of the training process, and suggest an alternative if clicker training just isn’t right for you.

Associating the click with a treat

When using a clicker, always pair the snapping sound with a tasty treat. The first time you introduce the clicker, just go one for one – click-treat, click-treat, click-treat – and before a minute passes, your dog will connect the sound with getting rewarded. After that, you’re ready to train with a clicker.

What’s the magic here – why do dogs learn faster with the clicker? The click sound is distinct from any other sound in the dog’s world. As soon as a dog discovers that the click is followed by a goody, guess what – the dog will want to hear the sound as often as possible, and you can use the clicker to highlight good behavior. For instance, say I want to use my click sound to get a dog to sit: Each time the dog chooses to sit, I click and reward. What do you think happens? That’s right: The dog starts to sit more often.

Here are a few rules of paw for using treats in clicker training:

No clicks go unrewarded! If you click, you must reward with a small treat. One click, one reward. Even if you make a mistake click, reward your dog.

All treats should be small and easy to swallow so your dog can wolf them down and not fill up.

Don’t treat your dog when she’s not having lessons, or getting a reward won’t seem as exciting.

Using a clicker effectively

Here are some tips on how to use clicker training most effectively: Use the clicker to reinforce each step of your dog’s trick progression. Think in terms of stage-by-stage training -break the lesson into steps, and click when your dog masters each one; as you build up to the full trick, the dog will have to do increasingly more for a click.

For example, say you want to teach your dog to make a left circle. You first plan to sit with your dog and click when your dog takes one step to the left; that’s stage one. Then you hold out your click for two steps, then three – then a full circle. Training this way definitely takes longer than pulling your dog in a circle, but after your dog figures out the sequence, she does a circle with far more zest and enthusiasm than if you were to tug her around and around.

Capture the exact moment your dog is doing something right with a click. If you want to give clicker training a go, timing is everything. A poorly timed click confuses a dog and can result in naughty behavior. When you’ve clicked, the treat should be given immediately afterward, before requesting another behavior.

Attach a spoken command to the behavior after your dog has figured out what’s making the clicker work. Use your command after your dog is already offering you the behavior. Initially, click and reward each time your dog sits in front of you. (You may show her a treat or reward to prompt her cooperation, but initially do not use the command.) When your dog is sitting rapidly, attach the command to the behavior – say “Sit” as she’s planting her bottom on the ground. After you’ve paired the two, a couple of days later you’re ready to prompt the position by saying the command ahead of time -just before you offer the reward. Command “Sit” first, and then click and reward the good behavior. Soon you’ll be able to say “Sit” away from clicker training exercises, and your dog will be spot on.

As your dog masters each new command, begin phasing off the use of the clicker and rewards, but always praise your dog for a job well done. Use the clicker when introducing new concepts and behaviors to high-light their importance.

Checking out why it’s not for everyone

If clicker training is so effective, why would anyone choose differently? Honestly, I’m not a clicker-exclusive trainer. I use a lot of methods to teach dogs, and my approaches are all upbeat and fun. People have different skills, and dogs do, too.

For people who can coordinate the timing of the clicker and remember to use it, it’s a godsend. Dogs learn much faster -nearly twice as quickly – when it’s used properly. That said, in some homes a clicker can fall into the wrong hands or fail to fit into the daily plan. For families with young children or people who get discouraged easily or have trouble finding their car keys, just working the device can be an unnecessary frustration. Over clicking or clicking at the wrong time confuses dogs, and a clicker in the hands of a young child can give a dog career-stress overload. Don’t feel bad if the clicker doesn’t work for you!

Although I can guarantee the clicker’s effectiveness, it’s not the only way to teach your dog. If the how-to of clicker training leaves you turned off to trick training, don’t be; remember, there are many ways to teach dogs. A better option for you may be to insert a sharp word cue like “Yes!” or “Good!” each time your dog successfully completes a maneuver, and leave it at that. The take-home message here is that a sharp, declarative sound used to target breakthroughs in cooperation helps your dog understand what you want her to do.

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